Sümölök

The sprouted-wheat pudding stirred all night in a cauldron for Nooruz on 21 March.

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Sümölök, homemade

Yes, my dear, I know it is September. A reader asked for this one, and it needs planning, so tuck it away for March.

Across Central Asia, sumalak is cooked for the spring new year, and it belongs to the women. On Nooruz eve the women of our street gathered around one enormous cauldron and took turns stirring all night, singing old songs to keep each other awake. I remember falling asleep on my mother’s lap to their voices. There is no sugar in it; all the sweetness comes from the sprouted wheat. This is a small home version, but it still takes a whole day, so invite your girlfriends, put the kettle on, and share the spoon.

What you'll need

The ingredients for Sümölök, measured out on the counter
Everything for sümölök, ready to go. You'll find the exact amounts in the recipe card below.
Sümölök, homemade
sümölök

Sümölök

The sprouted-wheat pudding stirred all night in a cauldron for Nooruz on 21 March.

Total time4 days sprouting + 10 h
Serves12
CourseHolidays

Ingredients

12 servings

Instructions

Method

  1. Soak the wheat overnight, then spread it on a tray, cover with a damp cloth and keep it moist for 3–4 days until the sprouts are 3–5 cm long.
  2. Blend the sprouts with 1 L of water in batches, then squeeze the pulp through a cloth to extract the green juice. Repeat twice more with 1 L water each time. Keep all the juice.
  3. Warm the oil in a large heavy pot, then whisk in the flour and cook 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in the wheat juice until smooth. Drop in the clean pebbles.
  4. Simmer on low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom, adding hot water as it thickens. Cook 8–10 hours until it turns a deep brown and becomes thick and sweet.
  5. Cover and leave to rest overnight. Serve cool in small bowls with flatbread.
From my kitchen: Making a wish while you stir is part of the tradition. So is finding a pebble in your bowl, which means good luck for the year.
Cuisine Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, IradFor Nooruz (21 March)

With love from my kitchen in Talas,Jibek